OEKO-TEX, GOTS and GRS: textile certifications explained
The supplier's quote says "OEKO-TEX", "GOTS" or "GRS" – but what do these acronyms actually promise? Textile certifications prove very different things: one checks for harmful substances, another for organic cotton and social conditions in production, a third for the share of recycled material. When you buy company clothing or bags, the difference matters both for quality and for what you are allowed to claim about your product.
This guide explains what each common certificate proves and what it does not, how to verify a certificate number, and what to ask before you order textile business gifts with logo. At the end you will find a checklist and a worked example.
In short
- OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 means the product has been tested for harmful substances. It says nothing about organic cotton, water use or working conditions.
- GOTS is the organic textile standard: the "organic" label grade requires at least 95% and "made with organic" at least 70% certified organic fibre, and it also covers environmental and social criteria.
- GRS and OCS are Textile Exchange standards for verifying recycled and organic content; Fairtrade focuses on trading terms for farmers. Check the exact requirements with the scheme owner.
- A certificate applies to a specific product and period. An OEKO-TEX certificate is issued for one year and covers only the articles listed in it.
- Always verify the number – in the OEKO-TEX Label Check or the GOTS public database – and ask for a transaction certificate for GOTS goods.
- Since 27.09.2026, every sustainability label in the EU must be based on a certification scheme with independent verification, so a genuine certificate is also the basis for your claims.
Why textile certification matters for a business gift
A branded T-shirt, hoodie or bag is something people wear against their skin or use every day. A certificate helps answer three questions: is the material safe, is its origin traceable, and does production meet certain environmental and social requirements? No single certificate answers all three at once.
The second reason is legal. According to the European Commission's guidance on Directive (EU) 2024/825, since 27 September 2026 every sustainability label must be based on a certification scheme with independent third-party verification. If you want to mention organic cotton or recycled fabric on your gift or its packaging, a valid certificate is the best evidence.
OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100: testing for harmful substances
OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 is a label for textiles tested for harmful substances. According to OEKO-TEX, every thread, button and accessory is tested against a list of more than 1,000 harmful substances. According to Hohenstein's guide, all parts of the product, including zips, linings and buttons, must meet the requirements, and the criteria are updated at least once a year.
Product classes
STANDARD 100 divides products into four classes. The lower the number, the stricter the limits:
- class 1 – products for babies and children up to 3 years;
- class 2 – products in direct contact with skin (most T-shirts, polos and hoodies);
- class 3 – products without direct skin contact (e.g. jackets);
- class 4 – home textiles and decoration materials.
The certificate also states which annex was used for testing: Annex 4 or Annex 6. According to Hohenstein's guide, Annex 6 is partly stricter. If the strictest possible limits matter to you, for example for children's products, ask the supplier which annex the product is certified under and compare it with other models offered.
What OEKO-TEX does not prove
STANDARD 100 says nothing about how the cotton was grown, how it was manufactured, water use or working conditions. It does not mean the product is organic, recycled or "eco-friendly". If a supplier writes "OEKO-TEX = eco", that is a misleading interpretation.
GOTS: organic textiles across the supply chain
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the standard for textiles made from organic fibres. According to the guidance of GOTS certifier Oregon Tilth, there are two label grades:
- "organic" – at least 95% certified organic fibre;
- "made with X% organic materials" – 70–94% organic fibre.
Besides fibre origin, GOTS covers environmental and social criteria "from field to finished product". Version 7.0 broadened social requirements towards human rights, added risk-based due diligence and continues to ban toxic chemicals, including PFAS. Compliance is verified by independent accredited certification bodies throughout the supply chain.
What must appear on a GOTS label
Next to or below the GOTS logo there must be the label grade, the certifier's name in the form "Certified by …" and the company's licence number. The licence number lets you find the company in the GOTS public database and see its certification status and licensed products. A Transaction Certificate (TC) is issued for every shipment of GOTS goods, and buyers should ask for it.
GRS, OCS and Fairtrade: what to expect
These three schemes appear more and more often in quotes for company textiles, but again they prove different things:
- GRS (Global Recycled Standard) – a Textile Exchange standard for verifying recycled content, such as recycled polyester or cotton, through the supply chain.
- OCS (Organic Content Standard) – also a Textile Exchange standard, tracking organic fibre content; unlike GOTS, its focus is not on environmental and social criteria across the whole processing chain.
- Fairtrade cotton – focuses on trading terms for cotton farmers, not on the chemical safety of the fabric.
For all three, ask the supplier for the certificate number, its validity and scope, and check exact requirements and percentage thresholds on the scheme owner's website. Do not assume that the criteria of one certificate apply to another.
Comparison table: what each certificate proves
| Certificate | What it proves | What it does not prove | How to verify |
|---|---|---|---|
| OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 | The product and its parts have been tested for harmful substances (classes 1–4) | Organic origin, recycling, working conditions, water use | Certificate number or QR code in the OEKO-TEX Label Check; class and scope |
| GOTS | Share of organic fibre (≥95% or ≥70%) plus environmental and social criteria across processing | 100% organic, if the grade is "made with organic" | Licence number in the GOTS public database; transaction certificate per shipment |
| GRS | Recycled content through the supply chain | That the whole product is recycled; harmful substance testing | Certificate number and scope from the scheme owner; transaction documents |
| OCS | Organic fibre content | GOTS-level environmental and social processing requirements | Certificate number and scope from the scheme owner |
| Fairtrade cotton | Trading terms for farmers | Chemical safety of the fabric | Licence and product code from Fairtrade |
To head straight in the right direction, start with our textile products and eco products, and ask in your quote about the certificate for each model separately.
How to verify a certificate number
A certificate logo in a product photo is not yet proof. Follow these steps:
- Ask for a copy of the certificate and its number. Not just the logo in a catalogue, but the document showing the certificate holder's name.
- Check validity. For OEKO-TEX, enter the number in the Label Check; the result is "valid", "expired" or "withdrawn". The certificate is valid for one year, and renewal can start 90 days before expiry.
- Compare the holder. Is the certificate holder the manufacturer or supplier of your product? According to Hohenstein's guide, the holder's name and address appear on the certificate.
- Check the scope. According to Hohenstein's guide, the section "Articles covered by the certificate" defines what the certificate applies to. Anything not listed is not covered.
- Check the class. Class 1 or 2 suits a T-shirt worn against the skin; class 3 is meant for items such as jackets.
- For GOTS, ask for a transaction certificate and check the licence number in the public database.
- Save the documents with the order so you can substantiate your claim later.
Example: certified hoodies for the team
Example: An HR manager orders 150 branded hoodies and wants to say on the labels and in internal communications that they are "organic cotton and free of harmful substances". The supplier's catalogue shows GOTS and OEKO-TEX logos next to the model.
- Requesting documents. At quote stage, the number and a copy of both certificates are requested for the specific model.
- Checking OEKO-TEX. The Label Check shows the certificate is valid and the class is 2. The scope covers fabric, threads and cords, but not the later logo print.
- Checking GOTS. The certificate is at "made with organic" grade, not "organic". So "100% organic cotton" would not be accurate.
- Branding decision. The logo is applied as embroidery. Since GOTS covers the entire processing chain, the HR manager asks separately whether the finished product may carry the GOTS label after branding.
- Wording the claim. Internal communications say: "The hoodie fabric is certified to GOTS 'made with organic' grade and tested to OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100." The generic "eco-friendly" is not used.
Result: the claim is more honest, narrower and verifiable – and the same wording can be used later if anyone asks.
Checklist before ordering certified textiles
- Which property matters to you: safety, organic origin, recycling or farmers' conditions?
- Which certificate proves exactly that property?
- Do you have the certificate number and a copy, not just the logo?
- Is the certificate valid now, and will it still be valid at delivery?
- Does the scope cover your exact model, colour and material?
- Does the product class suit the use (skin contact)?
- Does applying the logo – print or embroidery – affect whether the finished product may show the label?
- For GOTS, does a transaction certificate come with the shipment?
- Does the claim you plan to use say no more than the certificate proves?
Common mistakes
- Calling OEKO-TEX an eco label. It is a harmful substances test, not an organic or environmental label.
- Treating a factory certificate as a product certificate. If the model is not listed in the scope, it is not covered.
- Expired certificates. An OEKO-TEX certificate is valid for one year; the catalogue image may be older.
- "100% organic" on a GOTS "made with organic" product. That grade means 70–94% organic fibre.
- Using a component certificate for a whole-product claim. A certificate for a recycled lining does not make the whole jacket recycled.
- Forgetting the branding. A later print or finish may not fall within the original certificate's scope – ask.
You will find more on choosing textiles on our blog.
Frequently asked questions
Does OEKO-TEX mean the product is organic?
No. STANDARD 100 proves that the product has been tested for harmful substances. Organic origin is proven by, for example, GOTS.
What is the difference between GOTS "organic" and "made with organic"?
"Organic" requires at least 95% certified organic fibre, "made with organic" 70–94%. In both cases GOTS environmental and social criteria also apply.
How do I check an OEKO-TEX certificate number?
Enter the number or scan the QR code in the OEKO-TEX Label Check. Then check the holder, class and scope on the certificate.
Does a logo print void the certificate?
Not necessarily, but a print or finish may not fall within the original certificate's scope. Ask before ordering whether the finished, branded product may carry the label.
Does GRS mean the whole product is made of recycled material?
Not automatically. GRS verifies recycled content; the exact share and scope are shown on the certificate and in the supplier's documents.
Can I print the certificate logo on my gift?
Only if the product is entitled to it and the certificate covers that specific product. The scheme owner sets the rules for using the mark; ask the supplier for confirmation.
Help that saves you time
Logotrade OÜ has helped companies choose and brand business gifts since 2004; we are based in Tallinn and deliver across Estonia. We belong to the international promotional products networks PSI and ASI and are a member of the Estonian Chamber of Commerce and Industry. For certified textiles, we ask the supplier for certificate details as part of the quote and help you choose a branding method – such as screen printing or embroidery – that suits the material and your goal.
Browse our product range, sustainable promotional products, branded bags and portfolio. Send the products, quantities and certificates you need to logo@logo.ee or write to us via the contact form. In the quote we will confirm each model's certificate, production time and minimum quantity.
Sources
- OEKO-TEX: STANDARD 100 description and product classes
- Hohenstein: how to read OEKO-TEX certificates and check their validity
- OEKO-TEX Label Check: certificate validity check
- Oregon Tilth: requirements for GOTS labels and transaction certificates
- Textination: changes in GOTS Version 7.0
- European Commission: Q&A on Directive (EU) 2024/825